by Carlos Pazmino No one can deny the popularity of chess nowadays. Whether online or in person, it’s very common to find people playing on their phones, in parks, or in coffee shops, engaging in games or blitz matches. One of the cities where chess culture has been present for centuries is New York. Whether it’s because some of the matches for the World Championship between Steinitz and Lasker took place there in 1894, or because it’s the city where Bobby Fischer started his chess career, New York holds a special place in chess history. You might have seen strangers playing in iconic locations like Bryant Park or Columbus Circle in movies. To wrap up 2024, FIDE organized the popular World Rapid and Blitz Championships in this city, and destiny brought me to witness one of those days, specifically Friday, December 27—perhaps as a Christmas gift. A Journey to the Event After taking the train from New Jersey (where I was staying) to Manhattan, I set out to meet the global chess scene. I didn’t know what it would be like, nor what I would find. Just a week earlier, I had played the FIDE Frank Berry Tournament in Oklahoma, and I thought I would encounter a similar setting. I was completely wrong! Upon arriving at the venue in the heart of the United States’ financial district, one could see many lights decorating the elegant building that hosted the tournament. Without hesitation, I purchased a ticket that would allow me to spend the entire day in the hall observing the five rounds scheduled for that day, both in the open and women’s sections, which were held in separate buildings. Once I had my ticket scanned, and they placed the wristband on my hand, I was ready for action. The Venue and Atmosphere The security for electronic devices, to prevent any cheating, was quite strict. I was surprised that even electronic watches like my smartwatch weren’t allowed; everything had to be left in the lockers prepared for visitors. Essentially, the control was very similar to that of an airport. As the curtain opened, we were greeted by a huge room filled with numerous screens showing the real-time moves of most of the key players. A long hallway ran through the entire hall, allowing us to walk from one end to the other to get a closer look at those players we had only seen in online broadcasts or rarely on television. It was as if I were in a museum, but instead of observing paintings by renowned artists, there stood the heroes we always talk about in our chess clubs. Absolute silence enveloped the venue at all times. The only symphony was the sound of pieces being captured and clocks ticking. Of course, Magnus Carlsen, Hikaru Nakamura, Levon Aronian, Alexander Grischuk, Ian Nepomniachtchi, Alireza Firouzja, and more were there! It was easy to spot Carlsen as all the cameras and visitors constantly surrounded him. The match had started, and he was playing against Aryan Tari, another Norwegian whom he rarely loses to. I stayed to watch the game. At that moment, I was unaware of the jeans controversy, but I noticed that after the match, once Magnus had secured a victory, the referee approached him as if instructing him to wait elsewhere in the hall. Carlsen gestured in response, though I couldn’t hear from where I was. Soon after, I realized this was the moment when the referee asked him to change his jeans before the next round, to which Magnus firmly said no—and perhaps more. Memorable Matches and Encounters There were many games to watch. For instance, I recall seeing Aronian draw with a player I didn’t recognize or witnessing an extremely quick draw between Murzin (the tournament winner) and Anish Giri. Everyone was there—absolutely everyone. A particularly delightful moment was before the start of the next round when some players stayed in the hall to observe their colleagues’ games. At one point, I noticed Leinier Domínguez waiting idly, so I approached him to say a few words as if I had known him forever (perhaps I have). The Grandmaster told me the tournament was very tough and that anyone could win it, given the enormous skill level of the younger players, which has grown tremendously. And indeed, we saw this, as the winner of the Rapid tournament was only 18 years old. Capturing the Energy As the new round began, visitors were allowed to enter the hall with their cell phones for five minutes to take pictures of the players and the event itself. I made the most of this opportunity, capturing faces, gestures, and the tension in the room. I tried to make those five minutes count to the fullest. Once the time was up, we were all asked to leave the hall, and to re-enter, we had to deposit all electronic devices back in the lockers. I couldn’t resist visiting the women’s section. I quickly crossed the street and entered their playing hall. After the rigorous security check, I found myself much closer to the players than in the open section. There they were, all the elite players: Valentina Gunina, Ju Wenjun, Alexandra Kosteniuk, Carissa Yip, Irina Krush… in short, everyone! Unforgettable Moments Once the round ended, we all exited the venue. Among the fans waiting outside for autographs, I spotted Ian Nepomniachtchi in front of me. Immediately, I asked if I could take a picture with him, and he kindly agreed. A few seconds later, I saw Irina Krush, from whom I also requested a photo. I told her I had traveled from Oklahoma to watch the games, and she mentioned how fondly she remembers Oklahoma for the tournaments organized there, especially by Frank Berry. I invited her to visit our small club, and hopefully, she can come someday. Gens Una Sumus It was a day full of unforgettable anecdotes. I felt so immersed in the energy of the hall. Everyone was battling across the 64 squares to be the best. Professional chess players are unique; they sacrifice everything to compete, undeterred by holidays like Christmas or New Year’s. That’s why the tears of frustration the world saw from Vassily Ivanchuk become a testament to how tough and competitive chess is—a sport we all love. Seeing those warriors in person only deepened my admiration and inspiration.